Sunday, March 21, 2010

Day 5--Tengboche to Dingboche

Today we walked from Tengboche to Dingboche (two towns that sound exactly the same to our American ears).  Thankfully, it was a somewhat easier day with about five hours of walking. 

When we woke, it was about 28 degrees in our little bedroom and perhaps 24 degrees outside.  It took about thirty minutes of mental encouragement to get out of my sleeping bag and into my frozen hiking clothes.

Fortunately, the temperature jumped up about 20 degrees once the sun reached over the mountains.  Earlier, Gideon had gone out to capture some shots of the clear morning light on the surrounding peaks.  Mt. Everest is getting bigger all the time.

 The morning view of Everest (the peak on the left, mostly hidden)

 Mingma preparing the bags

Our cozy little room, Number 17

The Tengboche Guest House

Yaks beating us to the trail

Our walk this morning was muddy and icy, once again.  Our hiking poles are definitely coming in handy; I walk with one in each hand, and they support me like two friends by my side.


Nima with Ama Dablam

 Mani walls, built with prayer-inscribed stones line portions of the trail
Stupas, another frequent site along the trail

We stopped in the little town of Shomare (13,156 ft.) for lunch.  It was here that I realized that the altitude is starting to take its toll.  We were breathing heavily and were tired.  Nima and I both stretched out on benches at the little restaurant and caught a few zzz's while waiting for our fried noodles.  The idea of another few hours of serious hiking ahead was a bit daunting.  To add to this, my gastrointestinal system is starting to revolt.  Perhaps the fried carbohydrate goodness is starting to take its toll.  This is not a fun development on the trail, especially since we are now above the tree line...  I'll stop there.

Lucky for us, we made it to Dingboche in good time, 30 minutes faster than anticipated.  Now we sit at 14,468 feet in the restaurant lounge of the Sonam Friendship Lodge and Restaurant, owned by Nima's wife's cousin.


We are drinking endless cups of milk tea and laughing with a Sherpa friend, Bhim, and an eccentric Belgian who we've been running into often along the trail.  He's training to climb Everest.  If his boisterous energy is any indication, I think he just may make it some day.  Nima is giving us all a lesson on how to use Yak droppings to heat a home.  It's burning in the stove right now, warming us in this snowy little town, and for that we are all grateful.

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